Trabzon

Trabzon sits on the Black Sea coast of northeastern Turkey, a city that has been continuously important for 3,000 years — as a Greek colony, a Roman outpost, the capital of the Empire of Trebizond (a Byzantine successor state), and a major terminus of the Silk Road. The surrounding landscape is unlike anywhere else in Turkey: steep green mountains plunging directly into a grey-green sea, forests of beech and oak, and a climate that is cool, humid, and frequently misty.

Trabzon is the gateway to two of Turkey’s most distinctive experiences: the Sumela Monastery and Uzungol lake.

Sumela Monastery

The Sumela Monastery is carved into a sheer cliff face at 1,200 metres above sea level in the Altındere Valley, 46km south of Trabzon. Founded in 386 AD according to tradition, the existing buildings date from the 13th to 19th centuries. The monastery clings to the rockface in a way that defies engineering logic: a complex of chapels, kitchens, libraries, and guest rooms built directly into the cliff.

The frescoes in the rock church are well-preserved. The setting — the cliff, the forest, the mist frequently obscuring and revealing the monastery — is extraordinary.

Practical: 46km south of Trabzon (1 hour drive). Open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 7pm (5pm in winter). Entrance approximately 300 TRY. The walk up from the valley car park takes 30 minutes (uphill, partially paved). Allow 3 hours for the full visit. Minibus tours from Trabzon available.

Uzungol

A glacial lake in a narrow mountain valley 99km south of Trabzon, surrounded by steep forested slopes and a small village. The photograph of the mosque reflected in the still lake at dawn is one of the most-reproduced Turkey images online. The reality is quieter than the photograph suggests in low season and considerably more crowded in July and August when domestic tourism peaks.

The lake is at 1,090m altitude and the valley is significantly cooler than the coast. The surrounding hills have walking trails and the village has tea houses and simple accommodation.

Practical: 99km from Trabzon (1.5 to 2 hours by road). Day trips available from Trabzon. Staying overnight gives access to the early morning mist and the best photography conditions.

Hagia Sophia of Trabzon

A 13th-century Byzantine church built during the Empire of Trebizond, with well-preserved exterior frescoes on the porch ceilings and a distinctive coastal setting. Not as grand as Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia but historically significant — it was the court church of the Trebizond emperors. Currently functioning as a mosque.

Practical: 3km west of the city centre, on the coast road. Free entry. 10 minutes by taxi from the centre.

Trabzon City and the Bazaar

The covered bazaar in central Trabzon is a working market with a strong Black Sea character: dried fruits, hazelnuts (Trabzon is the world’s largest hazelnut producer), anchovies (hamsi — the Black Sea staple), and local textiles. The Iskender Pasa Mosque and the old town around the central square (Ataturk Alanı) are worth an hour’s walk.

Hamsi: The anchovy is the defining ingredient of Black Sea cuisine. In season (autumn and winter), it appears in every form: pan-fried, in pilav (rice), baked in bread (hamsili ekmek), and in soup. October and November are the best months for fresh hamsi.

The Pontic Alps and the Rize Tea Coast

The coast east of Trabzon — the Rize and Artvin provinces — is Turkey’s tea-growing region. Every hillside is terraced with tea bushes. Driving the coast road east from Trabzon to Rize and then inland to Artvin’s Kackar Mountains (3,937m) is one of Turkey’s great road trips. The scenery is lush, the roads are good, and the tea houses overlooking the sea serve glasses of strong black tea for 10 TRY.

Best Time to Visit Trabzon

The Black Sea coast is genuinely different from the rest of Turkey’s climate. Rain is frequent year-round (Rize has the highest rainfall in Turkey). Summer (June to September) is the driest and warmest period (22-28C), though misty mornings are common. The mountains are green and the Sumela Monastery is at its most atmospheric. Winter is cold (5-12C) and frequently rainy. The Sumela Monastery is open year-round but winter access can be difficult after snow.