Izmir

Izmir is Turkey’s third-largest city and its most European in character — a liberal, coastal, Mediterranean city with a strong café culture, a vibrant waterfront, and a self-confidence born of being different from Istanbul. Most tourists pass through on the way to Ephesus or Cesme without stopping for more than a day. This is a mistake.

Izmir was ancient Smyrna, one of the great cities of the classical world. It was a major Greek city, then Roman, then Byzantine, then Ottoman, and then devastated by fire in 1922. The rebuilt city is largely modern but what remains — the Kordon waterfront, the Kemeralti bazaar, the Kadifekale hilltop, and an exceptional modern museum — is genuinely worth two to three days.

The Kordon Waterfront

The kordon is a 4km palm-lined promenade along Izmir Bay — one of the finest urban waterfront walks in Turkey. The bay is wide and open; the view across the water to the mountains beyond is expansive. Outdoor cafes, restaurants, and fish houses line the kordon; Izmir residents cycle, walk, and sit here at all hours.

The kordon at sunset — the light on the bay, the outdoor cafes filling up, the city relaxing after work — is the definitive Izmir experience.

Kemeralti Bazaar

The historic covered bazaar of Izmir is one of the most authentic in Turkey — a working market serving the city’s residents rather than tourists. The bazaar extends for several kilometres and contains mosques, synagogues (Izmir was an important centre of Sephardic Jewish culture), hans, and streets dedicated to specific trades. The spice and herb section, the antique dealers’ lane, and the area around the Hisar Mosque are highlights.

The neighbourhood of Agora (the site of the ancient Roman forum, now a partly excavated open-air site) is adjacent to the bazaar.

Kadifekale (Velvet Castle)

The Byzantine citadel on the hill above the city, visible from across Izmir Bay. The current walls date from Byzantine times on Hellenistic foundations. The climb up through the neighbourhood of the same name takes 30 minutes and reveals a traditional working-class quarter with genuine old Izmir character. The views over the bay from the walls are the best in the city.

Izmir Archaeological Museum

One of the best provincial archaeology museums in Turkey, covering the rich history of the Izmir region from prehistoric to Ottoman periods. The classical sculpture collection and the finds from ancient Smyrna are highlights. Allow 1.5 hours.

Day Trips from Izmir

Ephesus: 70km south of Izmir, the most visited archaeological site in Turkey. The Library of Celsus, the Great Theatre, the colonnaded street, and the Terrace Houses (separately ticketed, worth it) give the best picture of urban Roman life in the eastern Mediterranean. Allow a full day. Arrive early — by 10am the tour buses have arrived.

Cesme: 85km west of Izmir, a peninsula with the best beaches on the northern Aegean coast. Ilica Beach (thermal spring water) and Altinkum Beach are excellent. The historic town has a Genoese castle and a traditional stone bazaar. Daily ferries to Chios (Greece) from Cesme port.

Pergamon (Bergama): 110km north of Izmir, the ancient city of Pergamon had the second-largest library in the ancient world and a theatre cut into the hill at a vertiginous angle. The acropolis is accessible by cable car. The Red Basilica below is a remarkable converted temple.

Food Culture

Izmir’s food culture is Aegean — olive oil-based cooking, fresh seafood, and vegetables. Boyoz (a flaky pastry sold in Izmir since the Sephardic Jewish community brought it from Spain in the 15th century) is the definitive Izmir breakfast food. The fish restaurants on and near the Kordon are among the best-value seafood in Turkey.

Best Time to Visit

April to June and September to October. The bay is magnificent in these months, the day trip sites are less crowded, and the temperature (20-28C) is ideal. July and August are hot (32-36C) and crowded; Cesme in particular becomes very busy with Istanbul visitors.