Gaziantep

Gaziantep is the undisputed food capital of Turkey. The city has more restaurants per capita than anywhere else in the country, a culinary tradition that predates the Ottoman Empire, and a fanatical local pride in its cuisine that extends to baklava as cultural heritage. The Zeugma Mosaic Museum — containing some of the finest Roman mosaics in the world — makes the case for Gaziantep as a cultural destination independently of the food. Together, they make Gaziantep one of Turkey’s most underrated cities.

Baklava: The Gaziantep Original

Gaziantep claims — with reasonable historical justification — to be the birthplace of baklava in its current form. The local version uses fresh Antep pistachios (grown in the surrounding region, smaller and more intensely flavoured than Iranian or California pistachios) between ultra-thin filo pastry, with a light sugar syrup rather than the heavier honey syrup used elsewhere. The result is lighter, more aromatic, and genuinely superior.

The baklava houses of Gaziantep take this seriously. Imam Çağdaş and Güllüoğlu are the most celebrated establishments, operating from historic premises in the city centre. Both serve baklava at room temperature within hours of making it. The difference between this and the baklava sold in Istanbul tourist restaurants is significant.

Practical: A portion (2 to 3 pieces) costs 80 to 150 TRY. Buy by weight and eat immediately.

The Food of Gaziantep

Beyond baklava, Gaziantep cuisine is one of the most complex and regionally specific in Turkey:

Beyran: A breakfast soup of lamb, rice, and garlic — one of the most distinctive regional dishes in Turkey. Served very early (some places open at 6am) and eaten before anything else.

Lahmacun: The Gaziantep version is thinner and spicier than elsewhere, with more emphasis on fresh tomato.

Katmer: A layered pastry with clotted cream (kaymak) and pistachios, served for breakfast. The combination sounds wrong; it is not.

Ali Nazik: Grilled lamb on a bed of smoked aubergine puree and garlic yoghurt. One of the best dishes in Turkey.

Kebabs: The Gaziantep kebab tradition is extensive — each restaurant often specialises in a single type.

Zeugma Mosaic Museum

The Zeugma Mosaic Museum contains the largest collection of Roman mosaics in the world — 1,700 square metres of floor mosaics rescued from the ancient city of Zeugma before it was flooded by the Birecik Dam reservoir in 2000. The Gypsy Girl mosaic (a 2nd-century AD portrait mosaic of extraordinary quality) is the most famous. The museum building is specifically designed to display the mosaics at the correct viewing level and in optimal lighting.

Practical: Open Tuesday to Sunday. Entrance approximately 250 TRY. Allow 2 to 3 hours. One of the finest museums in Turkey.

Zeugma Archaeological Site

The ancient city of Zeugma — a Hellenistic and Roman city that was one of the most important crossing points on the Euphrates — is 45km east of Gaziantep. A significant portion was flooded by the Birecik Dam but ongoing excavations continue to produce finds. The site itself is less visually impressive than the museum but the scale of the partially submerged ruins at the water’s edge is striking.

The Bazaar Quarter

The covered bazaar (Zincirli Bedesten and Tahtani Cami Bazaar) and the surrounding streets are one of the most atmospheric bazaar environments in Turkey. The copper-beating quarter (Bakırcılar Çarşısı) still has active workshops. The nut and spice market is the best place to buy Antep pistachios directly from producers.

Gaziantep Castle

An ancient fortress on a hill at the city centre, with Roman foundations and Seljuk and Ottoman superstructure. Now a museum with local history exhibits. The views over the city are good; the castle is worth 30 minutes.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (March to May) is ideal: mild temperatures, the pistachio orchards are flowering, and the city is at its most active. Summer is hot (38-42C). Autumn (October to November) is excellent. Winter is mild compared to Ankara or eastern Turkey.