Edirne

Edirne sits in the far northwest corner of Turkey, 10km from the Greek border and 20km from the Bulgarian border, in a flat agricultural landscape where two rivers — the Meric and the Tunca — meet. It was the second capital of the Ottoman Empire (before Istanbul) and the point from which Mehmed II launched the 1453 conquest. Today it is a provincial city that most tourists skip in their rush between Istanbul and Greece. This is their loss.

Edirne has one of the finest mosques ever built and one of the strangest annual sporting events on earth.

The Selimiye Mosque

Mimar Sinan, the greatest Ottoman architect, built the Selimiye Mosque between 1568 and 1575 and considered it — not the more famous Suleymaniye in Istanbul — his masterpiece. The single dome (31.5m diameter, larger than the Hagia Sophia’s) is carried on eight pillars that barely seem to touch the walls, creating an interior of extraordinary openness. The calligraphy, tilework, and spatial proportions are perfect.

Sinan was 80 years old when the mosque was completed. He is buried in a small tomb outside the Suleymaniye complex in Istanbul, but the Selimiye was his self-declared greatest achievement.

Practical: Free entry outside prayer times. Open daily. The mosque is in the centre of Edirne, visible from across the city. The külliye (complex) includes a market (arasta), medrese, and covered bazaar.

Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling

Every June for over 650 years, the Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling Festival has taken place on Sarayiçi Island in the Tunca River. Wrestlers cover themselves in olive oil and compete in bouts that can last hours. The rules (no holds below the waist, victory by lifting or throwing) are unchanged since the 14th century. The chief wrestler (bas pehlivan) is one of the most prestigious titles in Turkish sport.

The festival draws thousands of Turkish visitors and a small number of baffled but appreciating foreigners. It takes place in late June or early July. Check the exact dates annually.

The Ottoman Bazaar Quarter

The old city around the Selimiye has a dense concentration of Ottoman-era buildings: the Bedesten (covered market, 1418), the Ali Pasha Bazaar (a long covered street of shops), the Semiz Ali Pasha Caravanserai, and numerous hans (merchant inns). The buildings are in varying states of restoration but the scale of the ensemble gives a genuine picture of an Ottoman provincial capital.

Other Mosques

Eski Cami (Old Mosque, 1414): The oldest mosque in Edirne, with enormous Arabic calligraphy covering the interior walls.

Üç Şerefeli Mosque (1447): Notable for its four minarets of different designs, an experiment in Ottoman architectural form that preceded the Selimiye by 120 years.

Day Trip to Thessaloniki?

Edirne’s position near the Greek border makes it a logical starting point for a day trip into Greece. Thessaloniki is 3 hours by road. The Kapikule border crossing is straightforward for EU citizens; non-EU travellers need a Greek/Schengen visa separate from the Turkey e-Visa.

Best Time to Visit

Edirne is a year-round destination. Spring (April to June) is pleasant. The Kirkpinar Wrestling Festival in late June is the most atmospheric time to visit. Summer can be hot (35C+) but the monuments are shaded and the crowds are manageable.